Casa do Rio: Men and Women for All Seasons

December 22, 2025

We have seasons to our lives. Families too experience birth, death and rebirth. Like nature, and especially the earth and soil, we are always in the flow of a circle or a cycle. As a pilgrim in Portugal, I am constantly meeting history in the present, as I peel back thin layers, like the bark of the silver birch, to discover the stories of families and their land.

On a cold and wet - almost winter solstice day, I tramped vineyards and tasted wine at Casa do Rio near Lousada. I came by invitation of Ze the owner, who together with his two sons, extended friends and family and likeminded visionaries, is renovating the property into a modern day winery, fermenting laboratory, education hub and discerning accommodation for cultured connoisseurs. In various nooks and crannies both underground and overground, there was evidence of inter generational endeavour and practical problem solving. From water systems and drainage to ornamental lakes of beauty and ceilings decorated from periods of Portugal in her prime. Sparks of genius as an essence personality, is how I experienced Casa do Rio. Even Bowie, the house dog had an Aquarian attitude.

This is place of a new vision seasoned from an old vision. A phoenix rising from the creative imagination of men and women who believe that some things are always worth saving. Casa do Rio is being loved into new life. The camélias at the entrance smile and await the projects full bloom. I’m keeping an eye on the shedding and nascent pause, before the restored buildings can be showcased. Curating such a multilayered operation requires a range of skills and competencies. The smell of the soil alone is a unifying perfume as all hands come on deck. Even more cohesion is drinking the Casa do Rio wines, together in the kitchen with fine food. I left with rosy cheeks and an inclination to return when the spring sunshine hits the vines.

Julia a Pilgrim in Portugal © 2026

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