As I map northern Portugal as a modern day pilgrim, I am struck by how the past weaves into the future and what changes and what stands the test of time. In Arcos de Valdevez the river remains the natural landmark of the town. Old river front houses are being restored and brought back into modern day elegance. The circular Lapa church with its red crafted doors and velvet curtains, holds the mystery of sacred divinity and as soon as you enter you can breathe deeply and come back to your heart.

At the entrance to the national Park - Peneda-Geres, Arcos de Valdevez is attracting a new generation of citizens from many global locations. A focus on nature and ecology as well as regional cultural and community activities makes it a unique hub in the north.

I was visiting my friend Maria who is running a community and cultural education hub in the area, and getting to know the local cooperative. There are many initiatives here where being guardians of the earth is the focus. I was also interested in the village of Soajo and its location on the Via Marianna path - which is the sacred route from Santiago de Compostella to Braga. In this part of Portugal so many timelines meet, and I feel that it is held in time for all time whatever the century.